The Young Designers Turning Copenhagen Into an Unexpected Fashion Hub
Winters in Copenhagen are lengthy and gray, so buddies Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks determined to make the dreariness paintings in their desire. “We needed garments that might carry some shade to the streets,” Potts explains. In 2015, armed with a shiny idea but no formal heritage in fashion layout, the ladies, who nowadays are of their mid-twenties, came up with the Feb be, a shearling coat in vibrant colorways—a tobacco version featured a turquoise collar and lime inexperienced sleeves.
Its success allowed Saks Potts to enlarge into similarly beautiful equipped-to-wear and add-ons—think polka-dot jumpsuits and blue mink purses—and as a result, the brand has drawn a loyal fan base that consists of Selena Gomez, Cardi B, and Kendall Jenner. Social media, the designers renowned, has been essential to their increase. “Without Instagram, I don’t suppose we’d be here right now,” says Saks, recalling the time Kim Kardashian West’s team reached out to the area a custom kid’s order. Mentors, like the Ganni cofounder Nicolaj Reffstrup, have additionally proved a boon. “In Copenhagen, all of us realize every different and assist every different out. Denmark is small, so we actually stand together.”
Ask Ditte Reffstrup who the Ganni girl is, and they will inform you it’s no longer one lady, however, a movement. And if the emblem’s navy of elegant devotees (dubbed #gannigirls on Instagram) is any indication, she’s right. When Ditte, forty-one, and her husband, Nicolaj, 44, took over the small knitwear logo in 2009, she becomes a customer at an idea shop, and Nicolaj was operating at a tech start-up.
Thanks to the tongue-in-cheek runway display they staged in 2014 on a Copenhagen hotel rooftop’s tennis courtroom, their revamp of the label, full of eccentric prints and elegant separates, stuck the eye of retailers like Mytheresa, Selfridges, and Net-a-Porter. Since then, Gianni has ended up known for its whimsical edge—a crimson pinnacle comes adorned with a sewn-in shoelace element, and a billowing maxi dress is embellished with mismatched patterns on the sleeves, skirt, and bodice. This yr, the couple is opening its first London store. “From the very beginning,” Nicolaj says, “Ditte wanted to show the sector her model of Scandinavian cool.”
The dressmaker Cecilie Bahnsen was 12 whilst a summer internship assisting customers on the Royal Danish Theatre helped her find her calling. “Seeing the sort of time, love, an element that went into everyone gets dressed totally wowed me,” Bahnsen, now 35, says of that formative enjoy. In between incomes, her B.A. In style design on the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and a grasp’s in women’s put on from the Royal College of Art in London, Bahnsen landed a process with John Galliano’s dressmaker. In 2011, she became a design assistant at Erdem, where she specialized in embroidery, and four years later launched her namesake company.
Inspired using traditional Danish design, Bahnsen has endured refining her minimalist aesthetic. Not notably, hand-embroidered separates and side ballooning child-doll dresses figured prominently in her inaugural runway show, making her a finalist for the 2017 LVMH style prize. And whilst her black and white poplin blouses and paneled attire rendered in cotton and satin are made using hand in her atelier in Copenhagen and offered at blue-chip outlets, Bahnsen insists they’re intended to be lived in preference to fuss over. “I love how my clothes appearance once they get stuck by way of the wind at the same time as you’re driving a motorbike.”